Graphic LCD Hookup Guide
Hardware Assembly & Hookup
Before we get to uploading code and sending data to the display, let’s take care of the hardware stuff first. That includes assembling the display, and hooking it up to the Arduino.
To “assemble” the LCD, you’ll need to solder something to one (or both) of the 8-pin headers. There are plenty of options available here. To make the LCD breadboard-compatible, straight or right-angle male headers can be soldered in.
LCD with strait male headers soldered in, plugged into a mini blue breadboard.
In this example we’ll be connecting the LCD up to an Arduino, but this hookup should be easily adaptable to other development platforms. For the data transmission pins – SCLK and DN(MOSI) – we’ll use the Arduino’s hardware SPI pins, which will help to achieve a faster data transfer. The chip select (SCE), reset (RST), and a data/command (D/C) pins can be connected to any digital I/O pin. Finally, the LED pin should be connected to a PWM-capable Arduino pin, so we can dim the backlight as we please.
Unfortunately, the LCD has a maximum input voltage of 3.6V, so we can’t hook up a standard 5V Arduino straight to it. We need to shift levels. This leads us to a few options for hookup:
This setup can work for 5V Arduino’s, ignoring the 3.6V limit on the VCC and data lines. We’ve done this. It works. But it may decrease your LCD’s life.
The data pins are connected as follows:
|LCD Pin||Arduino Pin||Notes|
|1 - VCC||3.3V (VCC)||3.3V only (not 5V!)|
|2 - GND||GND|
|3 - SCE||7||Can be any digital pin.|
|4 - RST||6||Can be any digital pin.|
|5 - D/C||5||Can be any digital pin.|
|6 - DN(MOSI)||11||Can’t be moved.|
|SCLK||13||Can’t be moved.|
|LED||9||Can be any PWM pin. 330Ω resistor in between the pins.|