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If I hook up two solar panels, will the potentiometer Input Current Limit still need to be set to 3v? Thanks for your help.
This tutorial references a potentiometer, however I don’t see one on the board (or in the photos) and it’s V13. Am I missing it somehow?
(edited to add)
Found it, white rectangularish thing in lower left corner - hadn’t seen one like this.
Will the Sunny Buddy take energy from the battery to give it to the load, for instance in a cloudy day or at night?
I want to make a solar charger with your sunny buddy but i want to add network topology and add some ports, mi charger have 3 panels with a battery of 6000mah :) please reply the most possible you can.
Hi your Sunny Buddy is great and actually im gonna make a solar charger but i need to change adding switches, lights and ports on the sunny buddy, im going to put in my charger 3 panels and a li-po battery of 6000mah, can i do that? its possible change ports and add other specifications to the sunny buddy? Please reply the most possible you can.
Is there any documentation for what the Fault light actually represents? I think my Sunny Buddy is faulty, and I am measuring a voltage on the Fault pad (referenced to ground) but don’t know what this means.
The datasheet covers this on page 7. The pin is active low, though, so if you’re getting more than ~0.2V or so on that pad, it’s not being asserted (i.e., no fault condition is detected).
Hi, is it possible to use two of them with load connected in series to have a 7,4 power supply?
Yes. They are, in fact, designed to be connected in this way.
Hi, nice stuff.
Do you think I can charge Supercap with this solar MPPT charger?
I’ve not found any indication in the LT datasheet.
Probably. It’ll servo the charge current based on the LiPo profile, though, so it likely won’t be as efficient as a dedicated super cap charge circuit.
How do I know when the battery is finished charging? There are no indicator lights? Is the idea (not spelled out anywhere?) to put LEDs in the Charge, Fault, Set, Gnd holes?
You could do that; those signals are open drain so if you connect an LED anode to the supply and cathode (with resistor) to the Charge hole, you’ll get an indicator.
There aren’t any on the board to avoid any kind of constant current drain that’s not absolutely necessary.
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